Drafty rooms and a high power bill from walls with little in them? We fill them through small holes, so your walls stay put.
Wall insulation in Chico, CA fills the hollow spaces between the studs in your outside walls, the ones that often sit empty in older houses, so a room stops losing its heat in winter and soaking it up in summer.
Most people call because one room never feels right. It's cold by the outside wall in January, the outlets on that wall feel drafty, and the room heats up fast on a summer afternoon. In a lot of older houses the walls were framed with nothing in them, so the furnace and the air conditioner work harder and the power bill shows it.
What moves the price is how much wall we're filling, what's on the outside of the house, and whether anything has to be repaired before we start. The schedule turns on the same things, plus any moisture repair or electrical work another trade has to finish first. I'd rather wait for that than insulate over it. You get your own figure in the written estimate after I've seen the walls.
Three things decide whether your walls are ready and how the job goes. I check each one at the estimate, because they're much easier to deal with before the walls are full.
Some walls are empty, and some have a few inches of old fill that has slumped toward the bottom. I find out by looking behind an outlet cover or drilling a small test hole, because filling around old material is a different job from filling an empty cavity, and the house's age only gives me a guess.
Stains on the inside of a wall, soft siding or sheathing, the boards under the siding, and rot around doors and windows all put insulation on hold. Those get found and repaired first, so plan a little time and money for repairs, because insulation packed against a wet wall only hides the problem.
What your walls are made of decides where we drill and how the holes get patched. Wood siding, stucco, plaster and drywall each patch differently, and older plaster takes more care than newer drywall. I'll tell you at the estimate which side makes sense for your house and what the patches will look like.
Here's how a wall job goes from your first call to the walk-through at the end. I'm there at the start and at the finish, and you'll know who's in your house at each step.
Call (530) 399-1513 or send a message through our contact form. We answer seven days a week, 8 AM to 9 PM, and set a time for me to come look at your walls.
I come out, look over your walls, and note anything that has to be fixed first, like moisture damage or old wiring. Then I write up an estimate that lays out the work and what has to happen before it.
Our crew lead and installers do the work. They drill the holes, pack each cavity, make sure it's full, and then patch the holes so the wall is closed back up.
I check the work before we call it finished. Then we walk you through what we did, which walls got filled and where the patches are, so you know what's in your house.
We fill existing walls through small holes so your walls stay in place. Before anyone drills, I check for moisture damage and old wiring, because filling a wall over either one hides a problem we should have caught. Then the crew dense-packs each cavity, blowing loose fill in tight enough that it holds its shape, and before we patch, we make sure every cavity is full.
Filling the walls only fixes part of a drafty room. Air also slips in around outlets, window trim and the gaps where the wall meets the attic, and insulation can't stop a draft that's moving past it. That's why we often pair wall work with air sealing services, closing those gaps so the new insulation isn't fighting moving air.
If the floors in those rooms stay cold after the walls are done, the heat is probably leaving from below. In houses with a basement, basement insulation takes care of that, and I'd rather point it out at the estimate than have you wonder why one room still isn't right.
For walls that are already finished, sealing the gaps and dense-packing the cavities with loose fill is usually the better buy. It costs less than foam and leaves your drywall or plaster where it is.
Spray foam is usually the priciest way to insulate a wall that's closed up. If you're gutting a room to the studs anyway, the open cavities take the same foam or blown products used in new homes, and foam seals air as it goes.
We reply to every call and message within one business day to set a time. I come out, check your walls for moisture and wiring, and write up a free estimate on site, with no obligation to go ahead.
(530) 399-1513In Chico, building permits come from the city's Building Division, and that's the office to ask whether adding insulation to your walls needs one. I won't guess at it for your job. If it does need a permit, we handle the application and inspection with the city or county office that covers your address, and we'll tell you which office that is.
When a job has a permit, we give an insulation certificate to you, or to your general contractor, and it's uploaded to the permit before the final inspection. The city has also paused its own residential insulation inspections until a new local check takes their place, so I'll tell you what applies to your job when I write it up.
Around Chico, a lot of our wall calls come from older houses that were never insulated in the walls, and from single rooms that run hotter or colder than the rest of the house. We do the same work in Paradise and Oroville, where the permit office can be different, so I check your address first.
I'm the one who comes out to look at your walls and write the estimate, and I check the crew's work before we're done. I learned insulation on other contractors' crews and grew up fixing things right the first time, so I'd rather tell you a wall needs a repair first than install over it.
We've been in business since 2020. California's licensing board counts installing any insulation, for heat or for sound, as its own contractor trade, and we're licensed and insured. Satisfaction guaranteed on every job. When you're ready, call (530) 399-1513 or send us a message.
Closes the small gaps around trim, outlets and the attic edge where drafts get in, so the walls you just filled actually feel warmer.
Keeps heat from leaving through the floor and lower walls when the rooms above still feel cold underfoot.
We're based in Chico and work in the cities around it, including the ones listed below. If you don't see your city listed, give us a call and ask.
Yes, in most houses. Finished walls can be dense-packed through small holes cut from the outside or the inside, so the drywall, plaster and siding stay in place. Which side we drill from depends on your siding and wall finish, and I'll show you where the holes go at the estimate.
Installed blown-in wall insulation across the US usually runs about $3.90 to $4.60 per square foot. That's a national figure for the installed job, not our price. Yours depends on how much wall we're filling, what's in it now and any repairs that come first, and you get it in writing after I've seen the house.
Yes. The national electrical code doesn't allow insulation to touch or surround knob and tube wiring, the early style strung on porcelain knobs, so those walls can't simply be filled. I look for it at the estimate, and if it's there, you'll want an electrician to deal with it before we insulate.
Butte County does, not the city, so asbestos cleanup questions go to the county. If I see something in an older house that could be asbestos, I'll stop and tell you rather than drill into it, and we'll wait until it's been dealt with.
Usually not with blown-in fill, because loose fill doesn't come with a re-entry time, the wait before you can go back inside, the way spray foam can. If we're working from inside, move furniture and wall hangings a few feet off the outside walls. How long the crew is there depends on how many walls you're doing, and I'll tell you at the estimate.
Call (530) 399-1513 with your home's age, what's on the walls, and any moisture or old wiring you've noticed, and I'll come out already knowing what to look for.
